The Diamond!

Clear blue skies, warm temps, and calm winds: a rare forecast for Rocky Mountain National Park, but that’s what Kiley and I found on a recent ascent of the Casual Route on the East Face of Longs Peak (8/26/10).

Our day started at 2am in the Longs Peak Trailhead. Hiking by 2:08am, and a quick pace found us at the east end of Chasm Lake at 4am to fill our water bottles. An hour and 15 minutes later I was leading the first pitch of the North Chimney. Kiley and I cruised the chimney arriving at Broadway just before 6:30am. We ate some food and stacked the ropes and were off 20 minutes later.

I linked pitch 2 with the infamous “Traverse Pitch.” Moving quickly we had climbed the first 3 pitches before 8am. Another short pitch of 5.8 squeeze and we were below one of the best pitches in RMNP, a 200ft 5.9 hands and fingers corner at 13,000ft! Kiley arrived at the belay saying he “got a little pumped.” We rested at the deluxe belay to recharge before the upcoming crux pitch. Stepping out from the belay, the exposure starts to hit. The crux seemed overhanging and strenuous while wearing a loaded pack. Breathing heavily, I arrived at Table Ledge and belayed Kiley.

I stared left from the belay at the blank traversing pitch, guessing it was 5.12. On closer inspection, hand and footholds start to be revealed and the climbing clocks in at 5.8 with 2,000ft of exposure to Mills Glacier below. We climbed one more rising traverse pitch to join Keiner’s and easier ground to the summit of Longs at 14,256ft.

We spent a few minutes at the summit downing some bars and water. Then began our descent down the North Face to the Camel Gully and finally back to Chasm Lake. Thanks to Kiley's fitness level and time spent acclimating, we had a successful ascent of Longs Peak via the Diamond, one of the most sought after alpine walls in the Lower 48.

Eric Whewell
AMGA Rock Guide
Colorado Mountain School

ewhewell@totalclimbing.com

800-836-4008

TotalClimbing.com

Mexico 2010/2011

Mexico climbing season is right around the corner and now is the time to get your fall/winter plans all set up.  Each year we head down to Mexico for some unbelievable climbs and summits.

Orizaba Express:
If it's tough to get away from work much more than a week, than this is the expedition for you. In a weeks time you'll get to experience another country, climb a 14,460' acclimitization peak, and attempt to summit Orizaba. Standing at almost 19,000', Orizaba is North America's highest volcanic summit.

Mexico Volcanoes:
If you have a bit more time available you may be interested in the Mexico Volcanoes expedition.  On this amazing expedition we'll visit the ruins of Teotihuacan to get the legs adjusted to the altitude, climb the 17,343' Izta, and attempt to summit Orizaba. This expedition is great for first timers and seasoned vets.

Mexico Rock Climbing:
The best way to shake those cold temp blues is to head south.  We guide down in Mexico at the world famous Potrero Chico each year.  These limestone cliffs offer something for everyone.  We typically do week long trips there, but can guide for any time duration.  Single pitch or multi-pitch climbs, 5.5's through 5.12's, camping or private rooms, restaurants or camp cooking, cervezas or margaritas... The choice is yours.  We can do custom trips anytime.  Take your fall, Christmas, or spring break with us down in Mexico.

Click here for more information.
Contact me today to register for any or all of these trips.

Thanks,

E.J. Nogaski
Expedition Manager
800-836-4008 x3

Sharkstooth August 15th, 2010

Climbed the Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth today with CMS client Marty Parris. We had a wonderful day up high, enjoying perfect temps and generally clear skies. August has provided us with a recent and much needed dry-out from the monsoon weather of July. Definitely time to start making a move on the alpine projects for the season. 

Sharkstooth’s NE ridge is located high in the Andrews Glacier cirque, within spitting distance of the ever-popular Petit Grepon and the equally classic Saber. At Grade III, 5.6 and close to 1000’ tall, it’s one of the longest and most dramatic moderate alpine climbs that the Rocky Mountain National Park has to offer. 

Marty and I left CMS at 3am and spent close to 4 hours on the approach to the base of the climbing. Much talus was hopped. We were on top by noon and finished navigating the descent by 2pm. It was a classic day in the high peaks and Marty was a fit and capable partner. The day’s only hangup was my realization that I hadn’t checked/replaced my camera batteries beforehand, resulting in some missed photo opportunities! 

Climbing the sunny rock and exposed arêtes reminded me why August is my favorite month for climbing the alpine rock routes that I think about all year. Still 15 days left!

Mike Soucy

CMS Guide

msoucy@totalclimbing.com

www.totalclimbing.com

800.836.4008

Remembering Roy Barnes

Long time Boulder Rock Club member, Roy Barnes, recently passed away. We are sad to loose such a great member of our climbing community. A funeral will be held Monday August 9th, 2010 at 2 pm at Christ Mortuary in Boulder, located on Iris between 30th and Foothills Parkway (3395 Penrose Place).  Roy's family is in our thoughts and prayers.